James Lawrence · Last updated 10-Jan-2025
James Lawrence chats with Stephanie Wangui, ex-sommelier and trainee viticulturist at Domaine Guy Roulot.
Dangerously affable and incredibly talented, Stephanie Wangui is a familiar face to aficionados of Noble Rot, a small group of London restaurants that also publishes a highly successful magazine.
Yet, despite the allure of working 12-hour shifts, Wangui has decided to jump ship and relocate to the Côte d’Or in January 2025. On the eve of her last service, James Lawrence gets the lowdown on surviving lockdown, promoting diversity, and becoming Burgundy’s first Black winemaker.
Tell us more about your formative years.
I was born in Kenya. To be honest, however, I don’t remember much about that period, as we moved to the UK when I was three years old.
Did your parents want you to have a better life?
I was very fortunate as my family had money – I enjoyed a good standard of living throughout my childhood and into my teens. The truth is that my mother wanted us to grow up in a liberal country, exposing us to different cultures and values. That is probably the most wonderful thing about living in London today.
So what happened next?
As a young adult, I never considered a career in wine or hospitality. Quite the opposite in fact: I’m very much a left-sided brain person, with a keen interest in science and mathematics. At the time, I imagined I would end up working in medicine, or perhaps intellectual property law.
But then the wine bug started to bite?
[Laughs] You can blame the French for that. After sixth form, I studied chemistry at the University of Bath. There was an opportunity to study abroad for a year, and so off I went to Bordeaux. I started to walk around with a bottle opener in my bag, as wine (and good food) was literally a religion in the city. I had never really consumed wine on a regular basis until that point.
Did you apply for a hospitality job when you returned to the UK?
Actually no – I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do with my life in my early 20s. I ended up working for a charity doing fundraising, before accepting a waiter position at Padella Borough Market – a leading pasta restaurant in London. Then Covid-19 happened.
Was that the catalyst for a major rethink?
Like many people, I had an excess of time on my hands to think and reflect about my life and the direction it was taking. I took a long, hard look at myself, and decided that I did want to stay in hospitality longer term. However, my plan was to move closer to the product and move away from the operations side – chef or sommelier seemed the logical choice.
Still, that’s quite a jump from working as a waiter to becoming senior sommelier at Noble Rot’s Mayfair site.
Well, it has been a gradual process. I had wanted to work at Noble Rot for several years – it remains one of London’s best restaurant groups if you love wine! So I decided to think like a man and apply for a junior position even though I had zero experience working as a somm.
Think like a man?
[Laughs] I just think that men are, often, more confident than women when it comes to taking a leap of faith and applying for jobs in organizations. I’ve known women who were really overqualified for certain roles, and yet they still hesitated to apply for fear of not being good enough. The predilection for imposter syndrome is not a gender-neutral issue.
Nevertheless, you decided to go for it?
Indeed, despite knowing little about the nitty gritty of viticulture, I applied for a job at Noble Rot in 2021. Funnily enough, I spent 30 minutes yacking about science with the manager, before he asked me what was the difference between Barolo and Barbaresco. I had to be honest: I couldn’t really answer that question in any depth. But, he could see my passion and willingness to learn, so he said he’d get back to me. He rang later to offer me a job as a waiter in Noble Rot’s Soho branch. Of course, I said yes.
How supportive was Noble Rot in those first months?
Extremely supportive! Co-owners Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew are brilliant – Noble Rot has encouraged me to travel and make connections with winemakers across the world. They have also sponsored my WSET qualifications, promoting me to the role of senior sommelier. I feel honoured and privileged to have been part of the Noble Rot team.
As an (now) ex-sommelier, what would be your advice to someone putting together a list from scratch?
You need to be a storyteller – that was our philosophy at Noble Rot. Too many restaurants focus on grape varieties and/or regions; the secret to selling wine is to humanize the product and share these stories with your guests. Champion the esoteric, whilst remembering that some people are still in love with names: Champagne, Rioja and Puligny-Montrachet. But, in terms of value, there are some really exciting things happening in Spain and Greece right now. That’s where the bargains are to be found.
Yet, you’ve decided to leave it all behind and move to France?
It was not an easy decision, however, I’m super excited about this new chapter in my life. The truth is that I want to get closer to the art and science of winemaking – I want to get my fingernails dirty and learn about every aspect of the job from pruning to malolactic. So when a fantastic opportunity came up to work with Jean-Marc Roulot in Meursault, I decided to quit my job and seize the day: new year, new life.
Did you contact Jean-Marc directly?
In March 2024, I did a placement in the Sierra de Gredos, where artisans make incredibly refined – and indeed very Burgundian – Grenache. Here, in the dramatic mountains of central Spain, I met owner Jean-Marc Roulot’s son. [The] domaine has a long-standing relationship with Dan and Mark’s import business, and he said he would be interested in taking on a trainee for a whole season. Initially, I just wanted to work a harvest at Guy Roulot, however, his policy is to take someone on for at least 10 months. The family have been so helpful, supporting my visa application process and preparing me for a new life in Burgundy. It’s very exciting, as this will be the first time I’ve ever set foot in the region.
Is that your primary motivation – to break new ground?
Yes, on many different levels. This is a wonderful and potentially life-changing opportunity, however, it’s not just about pursuing a dream or personal goal. As someone who is definitely not from a winemaking family, I want to inspire others to follow their dreams, even if they regard themselves as totally unsuited to a career in the wine industry. I like to think I could be a role model in the future – the first Black winemaker in Burgundy, perhaps. I want to push boundaries.
Staying with that theme, do you feel the industry has done enough to foster inclusivity and attract a more diverse workforce?
Over the past few years, I have attended several ‘women and wine’ events in London; there is no doubt that the industry is becoming less male-dominated, although there are (still) relatively few female winemakers compared to men. Yet in terms of hospitality, a growing number of businesses have a large proportion of staff that are women. So we’re making progress on that front, although there is always more that can be done.
Have you encountered any racism or sexism in the industry?
My experience of working in London, and in wine, has overall been very positive. Yet I was obviously a minority in terms of being a non-white sommelier. At tastings, for example, I rocked up in jeans and maintained an informal approach – I looked different and I stood out.
But have I encountered any direct hostility? No – I’ve met and worked with some great people. And organizations like the Gérard Basset Foundation are doing great work.
But why do you think the industry is still dominated by white men overall?
I think this business is a benign one – I don’t think people of different backgrounds are actively discouraged to apply for positions. But there is, perhaps, a passive discouragement you might say; wine has been produced by white men for centuries, and that will take a long time to change. It is ingrained in European history: a white bias that manifests itself in the [overall] demographic homogeneity of winemakers and growers. But if we look at countries like South Africa, for example, then we can see progress in championing Black winemakers and encouraging people from diverse backgrounds to work in wine. It’s really inspiring.
What will you miss the most about working in London?
I’ll definitely miss being exposed to amazing wines from across the world. London is ahead of the curve when it comes to embracing viticultural diversity; you can’t help but notice that Italians mostly drink Italian wine and likewise the French and Spanish!
And what are you glad to leave behind?
Working in hospitality to be honest. I want my evenings back.
On a lighter note: seminal food and wine pairing?
A 42-month-aged comté, wrapped with a little nori and served with an extended lees élevage Jura white (exact wine was François Rousset-Martin’s Cuvee du Professeur Sous-Roche, 42 months on lees). Everyone talks about comté and vin jaune being a magnificent pairing, and it is, but this was an extra-terrestrial experience illuminated by an ouillé savagnin.
Old World or New World?
Old World. The history, culture, established vineyards, and family ties – combined with a sense of reincarnation through innovation – bewilders me. Modern science, regenerative farming, and a growing counter-culture challenging old traditions excites me.
There are some incredible New World wines out there, especially from producers who avoid emulating OG “Old World” styles. However, for me, they are still few and far between. I need to make a more conscious effort to branch out.
Favorite book, film and holiday destination?
Book
Woah, I don’t entertain much non-fiction. After reading chemistry and then landing into the world of wine, I’m a science nerd. But, if I had to pick one that wasn’t wine related: Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy or Animal Farm.
Film
I love a good flick. Outside all the incredible Oscar-worthy or life-changing indie films I watch, my number one would have to be The Mummy. It’s sentimental, the first VHS I religiously watched every Sunday for a year (obviously in my adolescence). I can still recite a chunk of the script.
Holiday
Pre-Covid: South West France. City, sun, sea, culture, wine, rural, hiking, mountains… the list goes on (starting in Cap Ferret and working your way to Pay-Basque/ Pyrenees. So much to see, so little time.
Post-Covid: Lake Windermere. Idyllic!
Finally – what are you be drinking for a celebration day?
I’m definitely starting with some grower Champagne. Got a bottle of Bereche Rilly-La-Montagne ’19 and Elise Bougy Chetillon de Haut ’18 that I’ve been holding onto from my Champagne trip. Then knowing my mates, we’ll be cracking into some fun bottles from producers we love: JM Stephan, A Liendhart, Domaine Lajibe and N Jacob, to name a few.
